Alexander Parfenov Biography

And this year he decided to recall the origins-to go to Tuyuk-Su. He had his own reasons. Alexander mentally spoke about the routes traveled: it means that we grabbed the Engels promptly, literally 4 days from crossing the border of Tajikistan. And here again I am in Osh at Omor, I am sitting in Dastarkhan in the garden with canaries. It was not possible to knock out their partners for anything, and they painted on my sentences in words Vasya Lozhkin’s painting “Sect of Skoptsov in a religious frenzy”.

Like is flying now everywhere, or the season is over, - pours, - in general, we will not be like the above Diorama. Indeed, there are not many options for safe options, even less “delicious”. The ticket to the house is a considerable river. And the vacation is still 11 days, shameful and ashamed to spend them in the city! And then I had an idea, ingenious in its simplicity: to leave Osh “on the ground” and “run” “along the way” to Tuyuksa, there Lisa gives a 4ki and they and their partner may not be released for serious ascent together.

Lisa and Egor receive a carte blanche on climbing, I get stooped partners and, at least part of the vacation together, and most importantly, in the mountains! Tuyuksu is the mountains of my climbing youth. Here I went to the mountain campaign of 4KS B and went on the first 3ki, 4ki in mountaineering with the SMS super -designer! Sergey Lavrov, whose opinion then sounded for me as the truth in the last instance.

My first team in mountaineering, the first coach Andrei Shamro, we started together from 3-k and reached 5-oh, then we thought that we could do everything. And they could ... in general, thought! The bomushtick continued: Somov is almost the same as the rubles on the Osh-Bishkek Km, 12 hours, taxi to the state border, m on foot from 50kg across the border luggage on herself, super-service, Bu-BIST!

Without linger in the city, through a store with diplomatic drinks immediately to the mountains. Yes, until the last I retained the intrigue, I wanted to make a surprise Lisa. So my wife found out about my arrival only when they met in an alprager located on the dam of Mynzhilka. Immediately, as usual, between good people, they drank with the organizer of the training camp and the old friend Anton Lezhnev further Anton, Petrovich, for the meeting and for all the good and I stood for contentment.

Tuyuksu is a area with a sufficiently soft climate, in winter it is not too cold here, in the summer it is moderately rainy. I remember walking her in the winter, in the scald you, warming before the sample according to the old recipe: in the down jacket and under the talent. Climbing fatal, to VK. Lisa leads in complex areas, where speed and ability to quickly navigate is needed, Yegor.

For these fees, we visited the crest of the pioneer both in the rain, and in the snow and in a thunderstorm - nothing can be done - the ascent should end at the top! At the next 4a Gorbunov, climbing became even more complicated, especially the 2nd rope, which began with a psychological traverse under the overhanging “belly” and continuing a complex, in places hanging in the inner angle with a gap.

The sign was also embarrassed at the very beginning of the route. Lisa well done, she climbed all this game, having rested at the points a couple of times- “Climbing Trade”. Already on the crest, we were overtaken by a thunderstorm, and snow, I had to wait for at least a thunderstorm. The first 4B I suggested going to the teachers, classic, according to the countertfort for the year.

The climbing here is simple, the main thing is to correctly configure simultaneous movement or not to stupid with alternating insurance. According to Max Ten in this route, the key on the approaches. Damn, when you are used to walking the walls, you begin to be too impressed on a steep rash so many chances to figure it out for the past two years! More, of course, I am afraid for Lisa: for the first time she is on such a relief, where everything is pouring, she breaks off, rides,-you climb and crush the clues so that they do not leave the legs.

After each mountain, I thought that she would send us. But in general, the route is pleasant at 12, as I hoped, of course, it did not work out, but by the 4th we went to the top. This is the famous wall, in the center there is a “strong” ice 4b, the former 5a when it was still customary to climb steep ice along the rock. Denis Urubko wrote about this route in his story “Vertical Ice”, after Fri Solo passed.

When the first rays of the sun fall on the route, they begin to pull out and fly down the “suitcases”. Therefore, in M ​​we stood at the top of 8. Komsomol was also visible, aka Nursultan, but still Komsomol, my first 4a in mountaineering. But what am I about the mountains and the mountains? After all, the main thing is people! And the people here gathered wonderful! The instructions have long been familiar, including on routes of the 6th category of complexity.

In general, Petrovich’s right fees! No wonder they are deservedly popular among all regions of Russia. A well -thought -out organization and the right messages: a centralized kitchen with a wonderful cook, rock classes, analysis of flights after climbing and a meeting with the whole camp in a solemn setting with a triple “Hurray! I even wanted to return at dusk with some 5 and a tired, but with a vigorous voice to report: “The sports department as part of N-person returned from the ascent of the 5A category of complexity, there are no victims and destruction!

And in the evening, a guitar and songs for every taste and always a classic - about mountains.But not to the detriment of ascents. The departments themselves know when the hunger, because the exit is early, especially to the "distant" mountains. Since time was running out, we agreed that if there was strength and desire to go the second 4B the next day. The desire remains, but not too much.

At dusk, a route sheet was filled. In the darkness, in the light of a gas lamp, it was signed by the senior coach.

Sluggishly, but collected by tired legs towards the mountain. I reassure the department: there, consider, each for 2 complex ropes to climb, I do not interfere in the leading; 2- Lisa, 2-Egor. The most delicious gets Lisa again: the rope of the ascending traverse with movements of up to 6B. I was pleased with the solid station in front of the key rope: three condo hooks and two anchor studs.

Lisa begins to confidently move in the direction of hanging. On the key, you need to throw your leg to the shoulder level on the cabinet, roll out and stand on balance under the overhanging “belly” with poor relief. Lisa is trying to make this movement with climbing. It rolls, gets up, sees nothing, loses its balance, cannot stand on one leg, descends into its original position.

Just in case, I pick up the rope harder. Lisa tries to start moving from the ladder, so the starting position is higher. It rolls, begins to stand under a hanging, jamming with a free leg, ... a breakdown! I grab the rope, I quickly choose. It cost: in flight, Lisa turned upside down, but the breakdown was into the void. Lisa, accustomed to disruptions on Trade, apparently not too impressed, is going to climb on.

As a result, it makes this movement, gets up and is again on a sloping shelf under the next hanging on which there are no comfortable hooks. He traverses under hanging, trying to find clues, tries to relax, 5 ... 10 minutes, scores anchor at the level of the legs in the shelf, hangs on it and ... a breakdown, - the anchor flew out, Lisa is in the same place and again upside down. A nervous trembling appears, swearing, it seems trying to cry.

We must solve something. Yegor offers Lisa to climb to the left, there the relief looks later and you can finish. Lisa takes a few steps on the end by climbing the long inner corner to the large shelf connecting several routes. Egor climbed. An hour and we are on the crest. The most impressions of the route personally delivered me not even a complicated climbing, not characteristic of three and fourth, but the stations lizins.

A bunch of filigree sets, a correctly seduced cascade station with a knot, but the points themselves! An anchor, clogged on a nose, an anchor clogged into the horizon, a couple of totems that stood on a fist in a shallow gap and besides, this can all fall off with a piece of loose breed! As a result, Yegor and Lisa went to these fees 1B Open, 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b, 4b, the last 4b only because of the long, rather 5a, but remembered how to be at large training camps and walk with the department.

So unexpectedly for myself, I spent the end of the vacation. For 4.5 weeks I visited 3 mountain systems: Pamir, Pamiro-Alay and Tien Shan, and crossed them all from the very south of the Pamir to the northern region of Tien Shan in road transport. And, you know, I am not tired, and again pulls into the mountains, I dream of how I find myself in the mountains again, a lot of plans, because I like it, this is real life!